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Tartan refers to the pattern of interlocking stripes running in both the warp and weft in the cloth (horizontal and vertical). The fabric is woven into a repeating square pattern known as the "sett."
Different sett sizes are used for various articles of clothing. During the weaving process, the sett is scaled to display the pattern correctly - a kilt made with a pattern designed for a tie would look strange, and a tie made with a sett intended for a kilt wouldn't display the whole pattern.
Understanding Tartans
Today, tartan designs typically represent certain Scottish clans and families, though this wasn't always the case historically.